I run, I craft, I write, and I make your favorite clothes.

I have written books about sewing for children and adults and I'm the indie designer’s patternmaking secret weapon. I've taught video and in-person classes to anyone who would listen since 2008. I believe that sewing clothes is a radical act of self-love that increases your sense of self-worth. I'm basically your sewing fairy godmother.

Treasure Pocket Pants Sew-along–Day 2

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Today we’re going to assemble the pocketed side panels.

In addition to the Side Panel-Pocket and Side Panel-Top pieces, you’ll need 2 pieces of 1/4” elastic cut to 4.5” for the 18 month size, and 5” long for all the rest.  (If you only have 1/2” on hand, that will work too.) You’ll also need the single-fold bias tape, or a couple 1.25” wide bias strips folded in half and pressed to start forming the casing.

Let’s get started.

Attach the bias strip or tape, right sides together, to the curved edge of the Side Panel-Pocket using a 1/8” seam allowance.

If you’re using purchased bias tape, this will match the tiny folded edge.



Up and Over

Press the tape and all the seam allowances upward, then fold over to the wrong side of the Side Panel-Pocket piece.  Press again.

Edgestitch the remaining folded edge of the bias strip or tape to form a casing for the elastic.

Feed the Elastic through the Casing

Insert a safety pin into a short end of the elastic and feed the elastic through the casing until the other end comes close to the raw edges at the casing opening.

Stitch down the elastic within the seam allowance of the Side Panel-Pocket to secure the end in place before pulling the rest of the elastic through to the opposite side.  Stitch the remaining edge in place, so that the elastic is tacked in place, threaded through the casing.  When you’ve fed and secured both ends, the Side Panel-Pocket should look like this:

Align the Stitching Lines

Did you mark the stitching lines on the fabric you cut for the Side Panel-Pocket and Side Panel-Top pieces?  Go back an do that now, I’ll wait.


With the wrong sides together, line those stitching marks right on top of each other and pin in place, to look like this:


Then, stitch them together.

Finish Forming the Treasure Pockets

Press the Side Panel-Top up and pin the pocket in place so it looks like this:


Topstitch along that bottom seam where the pocket is formed to add some reinforcement.  Then, baste stitch (use a really long stitch length, like 5) the raw edges along the sides of the Side Panels to tack the pocket in place.


Repeat for the other Side Panel pieces.


I’d love to see how you’re coming along.  Please post links to your blog if you’re sewing along in public, or post questions below in the comments section if you’re stuck.

See you tomorrow!

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Leave a Comment

  • Angie February 9, 2012, 5:02 pm

    I’m making these for the first time and I’ve double checked everything again on the original pattern pieces but the top side panel piece (besides saying it should be cut from the contrast fabric) is not wide enough to match the side panel-pocket piece. I’m just going to re-cut  it but I’m wondering if you also found this. I’m making the size 6/7.

    • SongbirdMama April 25, 2012, 6:21 pm

      There’s a new pattern piece for the top side panel in the errata she linked to from day one.  

  • Caroline February 27, 2012, 10:09 am

    I found the same, and also am confused, as in the pattern it says the side-panel top should be in the contrasting fabric, but in the pictures they are in the normal trouser material… I’m a bit stuck here… Help! Caroline


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