I run, I craft, I write, and I make your favorite clothes.

I have written books about sewing for children and adults and I'm the indie designer’s patternmaking secret weapon. I've taught video and in-person classes to anyone who would listen since 2008. I believe that sewing clothes is a radical act of self-love that increases your sense of self-worth. I'm basically your sewing fairy godmother.

Treasure Pocket Pants Sew-along Day 3

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Yesterday was definitely the trickiest part of making these trousers.  Let’s move on to the easy stuff!

Attach Panels to Create Pant Legs

With the right sides together, stitch a front panel (with the fly extension) to a side panel.  Repeat for the other side panel.


They will both look like this when you’ve attached the front panels to the side panels:


Press the seam allowances away from the side pocket panel, and topstitch to the fron panel.  Repeat for the opposite leg.


I have a topstitch setting on my machine which stitches back and forth to make a thicker-looking stitch each time.

Optional: If you don’t have this stitch and you’d still like to achieve a bold topstitch, you could use topstitching thread in the needle, or use two strands of thread running through the needle together.


Here’s the topstitched panel:


Finish Faux Fly Edges

Now it’s time to finish the faux fly edges.  I used a serger to finish mine, but you can zigzag off the edge to overcast on a regular machine, or bind them with bias tape.  (Of course, you can leave them as is, if you like, just be aware that the edges may fray inside after repeated washings.)

Remember to mark with chalk at the stitching line on your front fly extension piece.  You’ll be stitching some distance away from the finished edge.


Stitch the Front Center Seam

With right sides together, and beginning at the at the center seam edge at the leg end (not the waist end) begin stitching.  When you reach your marked stitching line, backstitch to secure.

Switch to a long, easy baste stitch to continue along your stitching line as pictured below:


Press both sides of the fly extension toward the Right (with the wrong side of the garment facing up).

Topstitch the Faux Fly

Flip the pants over so the right side is facing up, and mark with chalk where you’d like your topstitching to appear to form the faux fly.  I like to topstitch right on the finished edges of my fly extension pieces, so I marked mine like this:


With the machine set up for a topstitch (or a regular stitch, depending on your preference) begin stitching at the center leg-end seam and backstitch to secure.  Topstitch up the angle to the point.  it’s here that I like to put a little bar tack, which is formed by using a wide zigzag stitch set on a very short stitch length (satin stitch) for a little bit, to catch the point inside the pants.

Pivot your pants with the needle in the fabric, and continue stitching up toward the waist edge.  When the faux fly is stitched in place, it will look something like this:


Pull the Basting Stitches

Now you can flip the pants front over and tug on the bobbin thread to remove your basting stitches:


Flip it all back over, and you’ll have a fabulous faux fly!


Thanks for sewing along with me today.  Please come back tomorrow morning and we’ll assemble the back half.


Please let me know in the comments if you have any questions or concerns….it’s likely someone else will have the same question!

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  • kmriley October 27, 2011, 2:04 pm

    I am so excited you posted this sew-a-long since I am just starting these pants and this is my first non-trivial sewing project in a long time.  Thanks!  But, I am pretty confused about the faux fly.  Do I start stitching at the little ‘notch’ that cuts into the front pieces? Thanks.


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